How to replace bathtub faucet?

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Answer
To replace a bathtub faucet, follow these steps:
  1. Shut off the water supply to your home and open the tub faucet to drain any remaining water3.
  2. Remove the faucet handle by prying off the plastic cover, unscrewing the handle screw, and pulling off the handle2. If it's stuck, use a faucet handle puller.
  3. For a two-handle faucet, also remove the escutcheon plate at the base by cutting any caulk with a utility knife and unscrewing it3.
  4. Use a bath socket wrench to loosen the hex nut holding the faucet stem in place. Turn it counterclockwise to remove the stem3.
  5. Examine the faucet parts and replace any that are corroded, cracked, or damaged, such as the seat washers, bonnet washers, packing nut, or packing washer3.
  6. If the entire faucet stem or cartridge is heavily damaged, replace it with a matching model3.
  7. For a threaded spout, wrap plumber's tape around the wall pipe threads. Screw on the new spout clockwise until secure, then tighten with pliers or a wrench2.
  8. For a slip-on spout, slide it onto the pipe until the base meets the wall. Insert and tighten the set screw to secure it2.
  9. Apply bathroom sealant where the spout base meets the wall2.
  10. Turn the water back on, test the faucet, and check for leaks. Allow any new caulk or sealant to fully dry before running water2.
By following these steps and replacing any faulty parts, you can easily fix a leaky bathtub faucet and prevent water waste
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Author: Pros DIY



Key insights

  • The most common reason for replacing a tub spout is that it leaks or when you pull the diverter, the water comes out from both the shower head and the tub spout at the same time.
  • The universal tub spout allows for versatile connection options, accommodating both threaded and slip-on fittings for different plumbing setups.
  • Cleaning up the threads from any corrosion and using teflon tape is essential for getting a proper seal when replacing a tub faucet.
  • Applying teflon tape and joint compound to the threaded connections ensures a secure and leak-free installation.
  • It's important to turn the water off first when switching from the shower head to the tub spout to prevent leaks and ensure proper functioning.
  • Slip-on style tub spouts are easier to replace and have more room for adjustment than threaded style spouts.
  • Adding plumber's grease to the copper stub out and o-ring can help reduce the chance of damaging the o-ring during installation.
  • "I don't think I've ever seen a tub spill roughed in this high before."

Timestamped Summary

  • 00:00 Replace worn out or leaking tub spout by determining if it's threaded or slip-on style and purchasing the appropriate replacement.
  • 00:42 Use a universal tub spout with included fittings or a half inch threaded brass nipple for a stronger connection to the rough-in plumbing.
  • 01:21 Use a rag and adjustable pliers to loosen the old spout, protect the finish with a wrench, and clean the threads for a proper seal when replacing a tub faucet.
  • 01:51 Use the right size brass coupling and nipple, apply teflon tape and joint compound, and check for proper diverter function and leaks when replacing a tub faucet.
  • 04:13 To prolong the life of the diverter, never disengage it while the water is running, and silicone the gap between the tub spout and shower wall.
  • 05:05 Replace slip-on style tub spout by loosening set screw with 5 32nd allen key, ensuring smooth copper stub out to avoid damaging o-ring.
  • 06:54 Smooth out any burrs or corrosion on the copper, add plumber's grease, and tighten the set screw when replacing a tub faucet.
  • 07:52 Don't over tighten the set screw, check for leaks, and don't silicone the tub spout if you plan to renovate the bathroom.

Video Full Text

  • 00:00 Hi guys today we're going to changing out two different styles of tub spout. A half inch threaded iron pipe size style and a half inch copper slip-on style. Let's get started. Some reasons that you might be replacing your tub spout are that it's worn out and damaged or the most common reasons is that it leaks or when you pull the diverter. The water comes out from both the shower head in the tub spout at the same time to determine. If your model of tub spout is a threaded or slip-on style look underneath the spout near the shower wall. If there's no set screw it is a threaded model and if there is a set screw it's a slip-on. This will let you know which model you'll need to purchase for your replacement.
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  • 00:42 This is a universal tub spout which allows the connection of both threaded and slip-on with the use of included fittings. This longer plastic fitting allows the connection of a three-quarter inch male threaded stub out the three-quarter inch by half. Inch bushing allows for the connection of a half inch male threaded stub out and the slip-on adapter allows for the connection of a half-inch copper stub out from the shower wall. I'm not going to be using any of the included plastic fittings and I'll be using a half inch threaded brass nipple. This is just a personal preference but I find it makes a stronger connection to the rough-in plumbing. I'm starting with the threaded tub spout to protect the finish.
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  • 01:21 A rag can be placed first around the spout using a pair of adjustable pliers spin counterclockwise to loosen a rubber strap. Wrench can be used as well to protect the finish but to be honest. Protecting the finish will be more important on the new spout than on. This extremely deteriorated one to get a proper seal clean up the threads from any corrosion and teflon tape.
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  • 01:51 I'm using an old copper fitting brush. This is a three quarter inch by half inch brass coupling. It is more common to have a half inch stub out and this three quarter inch by half. Inch coupling wouldn't be needed. I'm quickly checking the length of brass nipple that is required to make the connection. This is a three and a half inch one and it is too long and leaving roughly a three quarter inch gap. A three inch one should do your tub. Spout may have instructions as well showing how far the stub out should be protruding past. The shower wall now to tighten everything in place apply teflon tape to the threads in a clockwise direction. I personally use a small amount of joint compound or pipe dope to the threaded connections as well so so so check to make sure that the diverter is working. Properly and sending water to the shower head also check for leaks at the back of the spout.
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  • 04:13 While the water is running. The diverter should disengage when the water is turned off a tip to prolong. The life of the diverter is to never disengage the diverter when the water is running. There's a rubber washer in the diverter which diverts the water from the tub spout to the shower head if you continue to disengage the diverter when the water is running. This will wear out the washer and eventually cause the water to come out. Both the tub spout in the shower head at the same time when the diverter is engaged so long story short if you want to switch from the shower edge to the tub spout turn. The water off first now that we've determined there's no leaks. It's a good idea to silicone the gap between the tub spout and the shower wall only silicone the top side and not underneath by leaving a gap underneath.
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  • 05:05 It will let you know if there's ever a leak at one of the connections. Next is the slip-on style tub spout. These are easier to replace and have more room for adjustment than the threaded style. They use an o-ring to seal the water around the half-inch copper stub out and to hold the spout in place. It uses a set screw that tightens down on the copper to remove the old tub spout first loosen off the set screw. This set screw uses a 5 32nd allen key. Once the set screw is loosened. The tub spoke should slide straight off one of the most important factors for a slip-on tub spout is that the outside edge of the copper stub out is as smooth as possible without any burrs so that when you slide on the new tub spout it doesn't damage the o-ring. This stub out is very rough so I'm going to re-cut it making sure that the length of the stub out from the wall still falls into spec after I cut it checking with the specs. A one and a quarter inch minimum three inch maximum stub out is acceptable so I'll be fine cutting off a small piece to remove the original rough cut.
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  • 06:54 Most cutters leave a small outside burr on the copper remove this burr with some grit cloth or fine sandpaper to reduce the chance of damaging the o-ring there's some rough corrosion on this copper as well that I'm smoothing out before installing the new spout careful not to remove too much material optional but recommended is adding a small amount of plumber's grease to the copper stub out and o-ring again. This will help reduce the chance of damaging the o-ring ensure the set screw is backed off far enough so it doesn't interfere with the copper slide. The spout on as straight as possible into the very back of the shower wall with the spout straight tighten the set screw. I typically just snug the set screw then tighten one quarter to a half of a turn max with the longer side of the allen.
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  • 07:52 Key don't over tighten. The set screw only holds the spout in place and doesn't seal against the water testing checking for leaks and siliconing. The top side of the spout should be done as same as the threaded tub spout shown previously in the video. I'm not going to be siliconing this tub spout because this bathroom has plans to be renowned. This spring well guys hopefully you found the video informative and I'll tell you one thing. I don't think I've ever seen. A tub spill roughed in this high before we're talking about a foot and a half above the tub skirt which typically you're going to install about three to four inches above the tub skirt. So I don't know what their thing is probably someone trying to get home early on a friday afternoon or save a buck or two in copper. Anyways thanks for watching and like always liking commenting. Subscribing is always greatly appreciated till next time.
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